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Ask 10 people their preferred choice of food and you can bet that at least eight of them will say 'Chinese'. Over the past decade we Brits have become enormously more adventurous where food is concerned. Of course, there are still a small percentage of people who are reluctant to try anything new and religiously stick to fish and chips wherever they may be in the world, but thankfully the days of the typical 'prawn cocktail, steak and chips and Black Forest gateaux' are long gone.

The popularity of Chinese restaurants was endorsed when three friends and myself dined at the New Emperor Court, in Portland Street, Clifton. The owners are a husband and wife team and have owned the restaurant for nearly 10 years. Kim Lien Vien is 'front of house', and one cannot fail to be impressed by her welcome and genuine desire to please her guests. Husband Thanh Que Vien is the chef and the kitchen is his domain, but we were assured by Kim Lien Vien that the roles are reversed when they are at home. (Typical - isn't it girls?)

The New Emperor Court specialises in the three most famous provincial cuisines: Peking, Szechuan and Canton. Peking dishes are light, elegant and delicately seasoned. Szechuan dishes are the opposite: they are hot and spicy, with chilli peppers being the characteristic ingredient. Cantonese dishes specialise in the technique of stir-frying and steaming, which retains the nutrients, colour and flavour of fresh food - particularly seafood.

The menu is huge, but we opted for a set meal that consisted of starters such as King Prawns and Chilli, Satay Chicken, Crispy Lamb and spare ribs. The second course was Crispy Aromatic Peking Duck (being a veggie, I had spring rolls which were delicious). The main course consisted of Sizzling Beef with Green Pepper and Black Bean Sauce, Chicken with Oyster Sauce, Sweet and Sour King Prawns with Special Fried Rice, and Singapore Noodles.

Apart from serving delicious food, one is made to feel really welcome by Kim Lien Vien and her staff. Even when extremely busy, she always has time for people, and it is patently obvious that the key to their success is the expertise of Thanh Que Vien in the kitchen and the friendliness of Kim Lien Vien.

With a partnership like that, they cannot go wrong!

Diana Dean

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